Only properly equipped climbers having experience of loose and vegetated sea cliffs should attempt this route. This is not a guide and does not contain tidal information required to pass many of the rock features along the route.










1. Coddow Slip Gully.
2.Great Red Gully.
3. Upper Blackhead Point.
4. Lower Blackhead Point.
5. Lynmouth.





1. Hollerday Wall.
2. East Inlet.
3. Mother Meldrums Gut.
4. Dog Hole.

2. East Inlet.
3. Mother Meldrums Gut.
4. Yellowstone Ridge.
4. Yellowstone Ridge.

2. Yellowstone Ridge.
3. Mother Meldrums Gut.
4. Traverse line.



1. Dog Hole.
2. Castle Rock. Dirty Epic. XS.
3. Wringcliff Bay.
4. Chimney Sweep route.






1. Crock Point.
2. Woody Bay.
3. Wringapeak.
3. Wringapeak.

1. Crock Point.





1. Big Bluff.
Wringapeak. West side.
The Inner Sanctuary.
1. Big Bluff.
1. Double Bluff.
Big Bluff.
1. Foreland Point.
The A Cave.
The A Cave.
A Cave traverse.
1. The A Cave.
2. Pharoahs Chimney HVS.
The Inner Sanctuary.
The Corridor Route. Under The Flying Buttress.
The traverse of The Claw. 1978.
Cyril Manning. One of the early pioneers.
The Claw.
Hanningtons Cave.
Heddons Mouth 1978. Third camp.
1. Pimple Rock.
Heddons Mouth.
West of Heddons Mouth.
The Tuesday Route.
The Coxcombe Ridge.
The Swim.
The Swim.
The Coxcombe. West side.
Bosley Gut.
Climbing into North Cleave Gut.
North Cleave Gut.
North Cleave Gut.
Cathedral Cave.
The Impressive Pillar.
Neckwood Gut.
Notch Gully.
Holelake Cave.
Holelake Waterfall.
Just west of Holelake Waterfall.

Sherrycombe towards Great Hangman Gut.

Leaving Gt Hangman Gut across the bottom of The West Ridge Route towards Blackstone Beach.
Miners Gully. 500m west of Gt Hangman Gut.
Mine adit. Blacstone Beach.
Mine adit. Blackstone Beach.
Yes Tor. Great gritstone climbing.
Yes Tor.
Yes Tor.






The Scotch Stone Reef. Little Hangman.
Another Cathedral Cave. Turning the corner towards Wildpear Beach.
Stepping Stones Cave. Nr Wildpear Beach.
Stepping Stones Cave Inlet.
The Hangmans towards Heddons Mouth in winter.


2. Double Bluff.
3. Great Bastion.
4. Cormorant Rock.
5. Hollowbrook.

2. Double Bluff Cave.
3. Great Bastion.
4. Stile on the Goat Track.

2. Great Bastion.
3. The Yogi Hole.
4. Hollowbrook Waterfall.
4. Hollowbrook Waterfall.
Note the high water stain.


2. Castle Rock. Valley of Rocks.
3. Wringapeak.
Big Bluff.
Great Bastion.
The Yogi Hole. Great Bastion.
The Yogi Hole.
Leaving The Yogi Hole.
Great Bastion. West side.
Cormorant Rock.
Cormorant Rock.
Hollowbrook Waterfall.
1. The Black Wall. 200m west of Hollowbrook. Hard.
The Black Wall.











2. Red Slide Buttress.
3.
4. Kittiwake Slab.




2. Pharoahs Chimney HVS.
2. The A Cave.
3. Red Slide Buttress.
4. Kittiwake Slab.
5. The Flying Buttress.
6. The Claw.






2. Heddons Mouth.
3. Pimple Rock.




2. The Swim.
3. Bosley Gut.











2. Cathedral Cave.
3. The Impressive Pillar.
4. Neckwood Gut.
5. Neckwood.




2. Holelake Waterfall.
3. The Mare and Colt pinnacles.

Difficult section 200m west of Sherrycombe.


Great Hangman Gut.





Yes Tor.

Little Hangman Gut.

Little Hangman Gut.

Little hangman Cliffs with the large East / West cave and Ramp.
1. Fossil Cliff.
2. Gritstone climbing area. See guidebook.
3. East West cave.
4. Scotch Stone.

Vertical and wet seaward wall of The Ramp. 1978.

The Ramp in summer.

The Ramp.

The East/West cave and Ramp.

The Black Chimney. 100m west of East/West cave.




Stepping Stones Cave.

8 comments:
Is there a guide to this route?
There was a private publication ‘Coastal Climbs in North Devon’ by C.H. Archer during the 1960’s. Its quite detailed in describing features along the route but lacking in detail of how to climb across those features. He appears to have swam by the difficult sections, but he was climbing in nails. Conversely the escape routes he describes on vertical vegetation would have seemed standard stuff to him but hell on earth to the modern climber wearing rubber soles. I do not know where you could find a copy nowadays.
HIDDEN EDGE OF EXMOOR SHOWS BY KESTER WEBB 2010 – 2011
VALLEY OF ROCKS: Illustrated with landscape paintings by artists from the Pre-Raphaelites to the present day and by aerial photography, this exploration of the dry valley, sea-cliffs and caves below North Walk, with rock-climbing, provides an in depth study of the geological evolution of this extraordinary part of the North Devon landscape.
VALLEY OF ROCKS: Watchet Methodist Hall. 8th Dec 2010.
VALLEY OF ROCKS: Porlock Village Hall. 19th Jan 2011.
ALL SHOWS begin at 7.30pm.
Details: Kester or Liz Tel 01271 850349. Email e.f.webb@btinternet.com
I came across this the other day. Pretty basic info but gives an indication of locations plus grid references, parking and access. Pages 11 to 18 are relevent to the exmoor coast.
Coastal Climbs
Tonight at 7pm BBC2 West. Coast. Nick Crane climbing at Foreland Point.
Anyone know if the waterfalls are frozen?
Anyone got a list of suitable tides for 2011?
The weekend of 22nd / 23rd January looks good, weather permitting
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